How to Successfully Manage Nitrogen
Conventional Nitrogen Users
Ok so a few things we understand with experience on nitrogen management. Nitrogen is an element necessary in the formation of protein that helps to feed the plant so it can make sugar. Sugar is pushed (exuded) out of the roots to feed biology (beneficial bacteria and fungi) so biology can make other nutrients available to the plant and are absorbed by the roots. The plant needs nitrate nitrogen early with the planter to build its structure so it will effectively absorb light and be more productive. Larger leaves and a larger plant are typically the result. The plant uses ammonium nitrogen or amino forms of organic N, known to us as amino acids, to program ear size at 3-5 leaves. So just applying N and assuming all N is similar is wrong. This is why we stabilize N to help keep more ammonium N available early. The plant will be healthier and larger on a little broader N diet at this time. Stabilized anhydrous or 28/32% with the planter or in burndown stabilized with ammonium thiosulfate, ATS which is 12-0-0-26, will help the plant produce bigger ears typically. The sulfur in that mix is CRITICAL to help getting more kernels. Use at least a 10% solution in the 2×2 to accomplish this. Realize if you put too much nitrate nitrogen on early in the season like in a weed and feed program that is not stabilized with humic acid or thiosul, ATS, you create more disease in the plant and stalk potentially for later in the year. The leaf literally contains an excess amount of nitrate and allows disease to flourish and grow. This condition also may predispose the plant to aphids. Certain genetics are more susceptible.
Ideally, we think you need 30% of your N up front with the planter, 2×2, and 60% with sidedress and at/near v12 stage. We suggest 12-20 gallon of ATS with an equal amount of water like 15 gallon and 1 gallon of sugar. This should bump your yield a lot unless you use NH3 at sidedress with a stabilizer. What we are doing here is giving the plant ammonia nitrogen at kernel fill to make a larger, heavier-weight kernel. These changes are a step in the right direction to gain the difference between a 230 bu/ac and 290 bu/ac crop. We also need to pray for cool nights in July and August to allow for maximum utilization of the sugars the plants make and keep the stress down. This also improves the test weight directly. Extra stress on the plant during grain fill allows the plant to build up too much nitrate and nitrate will NOT go to kernels. When you have too much nitrate N late the plant will cannibalize, fire, get week stalks, lose tops and stalk rot problems will inevitably result in early death and lower yields with poor quality grain. All these things can be remedied by just typically paying attention to your nitrogen management program.
Organic Nitrogen Users
If possible, you need to use manure for the bulk of your nitrogen needs. The higher the pH of the manure the more nitrate N will be in the liquid phase of the manure application. We have experienced the more nitrate N is available early in the season the more green snap issues you can have. We would suggest some biology in furrow to help release balanced nitrogen and additional nutrients from the soil. We also suggest the use of 70 Lbs of sulfur per acre to help release nutrients from the soil. Chemistry can be your friend if you know how to employ it! Also, if you can afford it, use feather meal for your nitrogen source. You can use 5-1-1 fish in your program but not in furrow. N Force, liquid 8-0-0, can be used in furrow if you have no other options. If you have any questions, please give us a call.
